A couple of years in the past, Bibhu Mohapatra traveled throughout the Atlantic by boat. While shuffling across the library through the seven-day journey, he stumbled upon the biography of author, activist, and transport heiress Nancy Cunard. (It was, certainly, a Cunard ship.)
Mohapatra was enthralled. “She had such a compassionate coronary heart and artistic thoughts,” he mentioned at a preview the week earlier than his Spring present. “She broke limitations and stood for her beliefs.” (The British-born aristocrat was identified for a lot of issues, however one in all them was her battles towards racism and Fascism). While Cunard’s private fashion was effectively documented—in her most well-known picture, she’s carrying a tricky leather-based jacket and a stack of African picket bangles, which have been fairly avant-garde for the time—Mohapatra primarily selected to let her spirit inform his work.
A geometric print of graphed-in circles pervaded the gathering. There was a jacquard model—used on separates like a crop prime with organza panels hanging down the perimeters—and a digitally printed iteration, executed on every thing from tops to clothes, together with a cap-sleeve silk and cotton robe. Mohapatra even took it one step additional, beading a graph-like sample on the skirt of a crepe column that was in any other case lined in crystal poppies. The designer’s refined ode to Cunard’s leather-based jacket got here within the type of a collarless skirt go well with produced from leather-based and silk strips woven collectively. (It regarded nearly like ribbing.) One of the most effective concepts was a windowpane-printed silk shirt that got here in black and lilac, its massive pussy bow tied within the again.
Mohapatra’s shopper is unquestionably after his formal robes—he isn’t afraid to make use of print, and so they appear to understand that. But the day choices had been notably robust this season. His assortment was female and fitted, however a bit eclectic, too. Something Cunard may very effectively have appreciated.
Bibhu Mohapatra Spring Summer 2015
Bibhu Mohapatra
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