The refined shift in title from Hussein Chalayan ‘s Resort to his Spring assortment—Moor’s Chorus to Moor’s Gaze—signaled a shift in emphasis. The serial repetition of Resort (the refrain) was overtaken by a extra mysterious notion: ladies draped, hid, half-glimpsed via doorways in souks. Chalayan made his level together with his finale robes, embroidered visions of ladies in burkas tentatively peeking out on the world like they had been truly hid within the gown. In the present unstable local weather, that got here throughout as a reasonably loaded idea, besides that the Louvre is nearly to launch an enormous exhibition devoted to Le Maroc Médiéval, concerning the historic interplay of North Africa and Spain, and Chalayan’s start line was precisely that: the cross-cultural glories of the Alhambra in Andalusia.
Chalayan managed to translate a whole spectrum of inspiration, from the romance of the shadows forged by orange timber on a tiled courtyard to the rigor of the mechanical grids of water irrigation techniques. Romance and rigor: quintessential Chalayan, in different phrases. Minus the arcana of the inspiration, there have been fluid, flattering volumes, sharply tailor-made jackets, a crisp lattice of white embroidery over floral prints. Chalayan is severely underestimated for the best way he can reduce a glamorous costume. Resort’s kicky Lollobrigida high quality was carried by right into a handful of off-the-shoulder slinky numbers right here. But he tucked stuff into the bodice of those clothes, like a secret. He can not help himself. There must be extra, even—particularly—if you cannot see it.
Chalayan Spring Summer 2015
Chalayan
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