Nothing is so sublime or so cliché as a flower. Carolina Herrera took flowers as her starting point for Spring, as she’s no doubt done countless times before. This go-round was different. Where once she might’ve been content to create something merely pretty, here she seemed eager to push the boundaries, sample new fabrics, embellish with unexpected materials, and marry the natural world with technology. It was eveningwear as conversation piece.
The square and rectangle embroideries stitched on a ball skirt, for example, were made from thin pieces of foam. That alone was unusual, surprising. But Herrera took it a step further by painting those pieces with the details of a pink rose, then piecing them together like a tile mosaic. The resulting bloom looked remarkably three-dimensional when the dress glided down the runway, and the same held true for other dresses with other treatments. Some flower prints were superimposed with boxes of gradient color like James Turrell’s work and, just as with Turrell, it felt as though you could almost step into them. They’ll be popular on the museum circuit next season. Large grayscale roses on black jacquard also had depth.
We’re happy to see Herrera experimenting. But for the customer who prefers to play it safe, she had other options: pretty dresses in pretty colors—the best among them a sunshine yellow strapless gown with just a touch of artful draping at the waist.
Carolina Herrera Spring Summer 2015
Carolina Herrera
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