A Greek passport with an Italian handle—this season Angelos Bratis joined the coterie of newcomers chosen by Giorgio Armani to indicate in his Teatro Armani venue. Coming after Stella Jean and Au Jour Le Jour, each of whom had been pretty flamboyant, Bratis set a special tone: His fashions appeared each fierce and solemn. The designer studied on the Netherlands’ Fashion Institute Arnhem earlier than transferring to Italy and profitable the primary prize on the Who Is On Next contest in 2011. He appeared like a pure alternative for Armani: The two share a minimalist sensibility and a style for pared-down purity, to not point out a proclivity for muted, dusty colours. Comparisons cease there, nevertheless—Bratis will not be within the interaction between the masculine and the female, neither is he dressing the working girl. Having been within the highlight for some time, he centered his Spring assortment on what he does finest: clothes.
Bratis is a technician. He would not work on themes, as an alternative relying solely on the probabilities of ingenious draping and a bias minimize to construct his creations. Many of the clothes he confirmed for Spring have been lower from a rectangle of material, molded across the physique with a single seam. Rather than monotony, there was energy within the repetition: The present was an interesting development of varieties, yet another difficult than the opposite. Cuts have been accented by shade blocks, and angular intarsia impressed by the work of the late Greek artist Yannis Moralis. There had been just a few clumsy numbers, however as a complete the gathering gave off a way of easy ease, with a slight erotic cost.
Surprisingly, the overwhelming vastness of the Teatro did not conflict with the subtlety of the present. “This theater is monumental,” Bratis mentioned backstage. “But my girls are monumental, too. They must be—sporting my little nothings requires a robust character.”
Angelos Bratis Spring Summer 2015
Angelos Bratis
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