Anthony Vaccarello took his second bow of the season tonight. In New York he’d walked down the Versus runway with Donatella Versace, trailed by fashions carrying the label’s most spot-on assortment because it was revived 5 years in the past. The expertise with Donatella will need to have had an impact on him. Vaccarello’s staff for his personal label is 4 folks. Versace’s? Let’s simply say it is rather a lot larger. So it is no surprise Vaccarello was in innovation mode right now, excited about his personal model, and branding. The first look out was a emblem sweatshirt, stamped along with his identify and the season, worn with certainly one of his signature diagonally sliced miniskirts and a shrunken leather-based jacket. A considerably banal starting, however one which Vaccarello made up for later with the cool, graphic manipulations of each his identify and the phrase “Spring.”
The world of ships and sailors was Vaccarello’s leaping-off level. His seafaring references ran from the apparent to the much less so—a brass anchor planted on the chest of a neatly lower sleeveless jacket; button-down shirts unbuttoned to the navel, conjuring visions of swashbuckling pirates. Vaccarello additionally had some sharp-trying denim, tailor-made in his typical take-no-prisoners approach—observe the on-theme portholes. But the true information was within the attire and separates emblazoned with block letters created, he defined, by laser-reducing plastic movie and warmth-transferring it onto cloth. They twisted across the torso or the hips (often and sadly exposing the fashions’ underwear) like a sail wraps round a mast. Vaccarello hinted that the block letters have been impressed partly by France’s many protests and partly by the artist Richard Prince. There was additionally the Versace issue: Those have been his first-ever prints, daring and unmistakable. Donatella would approve.
Anthony Vaccarello Spring Summer 2015
Anthony Vaccarello
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