Christophe Lemaire

The final outfit on Christophe Lemaire ‘s catwalk right now—a biscuit-coloured coat with matching backpack—confirmed his lady at her finest: intrepid, decided, on the transfer. To describe Lemaire’s modus operandi as “evolution” is simply too bland for the quiet forcefulness of his garments; “evolution with elevation” could be extra acceptable. After the present, Lemaire talked a couple of new precision in each his look and his enterprise. “The dedication was at all times there,” he stated, “however my expertise at Hermès has given me much more confidence.” He took time to credit score his workforce and his accomplice, Sarah-Linh Tran.

Now that Hermès is prior to now, Lemaire can commit all his inventive power to his personal assortment. It confirmed in the present day. The present came about in an enormous, meditative area within the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, to a soundtrack of Nini Raviolette’s “Suis-Je Normale?”—a tune from 1980 that made you grateful for DJs who go that further mile to discover a monitor so enchantingly arcane that its excavation can solely assist to counterpoint your life. Lemaire’s garments embodied each qualities: calm and normality. He loves a monochrome palette, layering a coat, jacket, and skirt in head-to-toe navy, white, or grey, in easy materials like cotton poplin and denim. But there was a brand new, assured sense of virtually-drama within the quantity, the swirl, the drape of the outfits right here. The coats which have at all times been Lemaire’s strongest objects developed into not only a “trench-shirt” but in addition a pink coatdress (the matching shoulder bag was one of many assortment’s interesting calling playing cards). The designer confirmed his deftness of contact when he layered a trench over a trench-shirt over a full skirt. There was a touch of cute wit in a wrapped high and skirt in chambray, the place the highest featured belt loops, just like the waistband of a pair of denims. The manner that one overscale costume in contemporary cotton poplin resulted in a cascade of plissé underscored Lemaire’s new confidence. If there’s all the time been a stringent rigor to his designs, it is clearer than ever that he’s now letting go.

Christophe Lemaire Spring Summer 2015

Christophe Lemaire