When Sébastien Meunier took over as artistic director of Ann Demeulemeester final season, he was being handed a poisoned chalice. As this stuff go, it in all probability appeared like a simple gig—the look that Ann herself established is so identifiable and distinctive, absolutely all that may be required is a seasonal re-scrambling of the important components: some deconstructed tailoring right here, a little bit of smudgy layering there. Black and white. Sensual textures. Some diaphanous wafting. Presto! Collection à la Ann. The bother—the poison, because it have been—is that Meunier is much from the one designer who has discovered the Demeulemeester codes: They’re not precisely a secret. Indeed, they’ve infiltrated the look and perspective of trend far and broad. And so a lazy method at Demeulemeester yields outcomes like those on the model’s catwalk at present, a dismal procession of fashions sporting what regarded like higher-than-common Demeulemeester knockoffs. Some good items? Yes, right here and there—the embroidered sheaths and maxi clothes had presence, for example, and there was interesting outerwear, akin to an ivory and black motorbike jacket and a crinkly sheer white lab coat. The impression of the robust gadgets was dulled, nevertheless, by dumb ones such because the lengthy piece of lavender chiffon impersonating a prime, or a costume, or a one-shoulder apron. Or one thing. The complete effort right here felt fairly “or one thing.” It appeared like Meunier’s coronary heart wasn’t actually in it, and he was counting on the established model vocabulary and the signature Demeulemeester perspective to promote the gathering. He ought to attempt tougher subsequent time.
Ann Demeulemeester Spring Summer 2015
Ann Demeulemeester
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